![]() ![]() FulanoDetail has updated the log for DIY Human-sized Mech.yiami liked WiFi Webradio on ESP8266 or ESP32.kelvinA has added Leti to Active Projects.Peter on Intel Suggests Dropping Everything But 64-Bit From X86 With Its X86-S Proposal.LordNothing on Intel Suggests Dropping Everything But 64-Bit From X86 With Its X86-S Proposal.Art Mezins on Intel Suggests Dropping Everything But 64-Bit From X86 With Its X86-S Proposal.test testov on Here’s How To Build A Tiny Compiler From Scratch.ziggurat29 on THOR Microwaves Drone Swarms.Markus on ESPClicker – An Elegant Solution For Integrating Dumb Devices Into Home Assistant.Manfred on Intel Suggests Dropping Everything But 64-Bit From X86 With Its X86-S Proposal.Sword on Intel Suggests Dropping Everything But 64-Bit From X86 With Its X86-S Proposal.Microbubbles And Ultrasound: Getting Drugs Through The Blood-Brain Barrier 19 Comments It would also be easy to implement this in OctoPrint, if it’s not an option already (haven’t checked Timelapse settings recently…). Last time I played with this it took some tweaking to the M240 code to get it to trigger my Canon T3i reliably – it would sometimes trigger an immediate picture, sometimes trigger the “wait x seconds and take picture” mode, and sometimes not trigger at all it looks like the code has been made more reliable though. That’s a very rough version – details will depend on your camera and printer, where you want the bed and hotend to be in the picture (you can set very shallow depth of field and focus on a very specific area, then make sure the front section of the most recent layer is perfectly in focus, for instance), how long it takes for your camera to take the picture, etc. Posted in 3d Printer hacks Tagged Cetus3D, frame dropping, heated bed, opencv, printer, time-lapse Post navigationĪnother option for taking smooth-looking timelapses is to use the “layer change script” feature in your slicer (Simplif圓D calls it “Layer change script”, slic3r has “Before layer change G-code” and “After layer change G-code”) and the Marlin gcode – move to an absolute or relative position, Wait, trigger camera, Wait again if needed, then either move back or resume. Pretty neat stuff.ĭid you find a 3D printer under your Festivus Pole, and now you’re wondering what’s next? Check out ’s guide for 3D newbies for more tips. ![]() This results in super smooth time-lapse sequences that make it look like the print is being extruded as a unit. Unhappy with the jerky time-lapse sequences that are standard fare, he wrote a Python program that uses OpenCV to compare webcam frames and save those that are similar to the last saved frame. Nothing revolutionary here - just built a quick cover from aluminum profiles and acrylic.īut the clear case allows for tip number three, the gem of this video: synchronized time-lapse photography. To contain the heat, tip two is an enclosure for the printer. He bolted some power resistors to the aluminum platen, built a simple controller, and used the oversized stock power supply to run everything. While the company offers a heated aluminum bed for ABS and PETG printing at a very reasonable price, rolled his own. One such tinkerer,, has been taking his new Cetus 3D printer to new places, and his latest video offers a trio of tips to enhance the user experience of this bare-bones but capable printer. But most of us quickly learn that adding a dimension increases the level of difficulty substantially, and tinkering ensues. Some noobs are clearly in the “plug and play” camp, looking for a user experience no more complicated than installing a new 2D printer. I tried a calibration cube with these settings and it obviously needs more tuning, but looks like the basics are working.Thanks to the holiday gifting cycle, many homes are newly adorned with 3D printers. filament: set extrusion multiplier to 20 (this needs more tweaking) extruder printer settings nozzle diameter: set to whatever you're using custom g-code printer settings end g-code: custom g-code printer settings start g-code: general printer settings bed shape: size 180x180, X origin 180, Y origin 0 general printer settings g-code flavor: RepRap (marlin/sprinter) ![]() general printer settings Z offset: -180 (change this to 0 - (your nozzle offset), so in my case -182.5) Note: I haven't tried this, yet, but I suspect the Y axis will be mirrored because of the unusual coordinate system and at least in slic3r I didn't find a way to mirror the Y axis Some of the settings I'm using (start/end g-code, extrusion multiplier) are based on S3D settings from here: For the same reason, you should always re-generate your gcode files when your offset changes. Don't run somebody else's gcode w/o knowing what you're doing, because the nozzle offset is part of the gcode, so you can scratch up your plate. ![]() !!CAUTION!! Your chances of damaging something are greater when you run gcode. ![]()
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